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‘Good morning and welcome to your live coverage of Finals Day here at Bells Beach – the sun is shining, the swell is filling in, the tide is dropping out, the waves are firing and we’re about to see what could be one of the greatest contests in the history of this competition.

It’s going to be a beautiful day here in Victoria, wouldn’t you say Kristen? ’

‘Oh, absolutely, Matty – it’s going to be a memorable one. What an honour to be here, the longest-running competition in the surf calendar, the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach Final.’

‘And the surf gods are smiling at us – we had a series of lay days earlier in the week, but then not too bad a day for the Semifinals yesterday, the conditions weren’t quite right in the afternoon, but this is the morning we’ve been waiting for: really clean conditions on the bowl, about six-foot waves at the moment and building. ’

‘That’s right, Matty, the swell keeps pushing in and we’re going to see some great surfing, no doubt about that. It’s on.’

‘We should probably begin with the story that everyone’s talking about [ laughter ].

Let’s talk about the two finalists in the men’s: Ethan Anderson and Leo Silva, both veterans of the tour, both technically retired, and they have wiped the competition, each of them taking down giant names – how did this happen, Kristen? ’

‘It is quite the story. These two former champions have dominated the contest and given us some monster rides. Ethan Anderson – wow, that power, that focus, he’s an icon to so many of the younger surfers here.

He’s always been a great advocate and face of the sport, so committed, and clearly time has done nothing to dampen that drive to win.

And Leo Silva [ exhale ] is it possible to sum him up, the man and his style in a few words? ’

‘[ laughter ] Oh, I don’t think so.’

‘You know, Leo has had his fair share of ups and downs out of the water – and ultimately, let’s be real here, that did once impact his performance – but that’s all in the past and what he’s proven over the last few days of this competition is that he is in a good headspace now, and there’s no denying it: like Ethan, he really is one of the all-time greats of this sport. ’

‘I couldn’t agree more. No matter the conditions, no matter the wave, Leo Silva can master it.’

‘That’s it, Matty. He has a unique relationship with the ocean, he understands the way his body has to work with the board and wave; it’s beautiful to watch.

And from seeing him out there this week, I think one of his greatest strengths is his decision-making ability. He reads the water better than anyone.’

‘You were just in the Red Bull Athletes Zone – a lot of focus in there this morning, knowing that the champions will be crowned today?’

‘Absolutely. They’re focusing on winning the most iconic trophy in the sport.’

‘And now for the question on everyone’s lips: any tension between Ethan and Leo? We all know they’re not the best of friends…’

‘[ Laughter ] I think there’s always going to be tension in these situations, you know, they both want it but there can only be one winner.

It’s natural to keep yourself to yourself.

But I have to say, Matty, as I was leaving the tent, I did see Leo approaching Ethan, so who knows what was about to be said? ’

‘Let’s hope they keep the fighting for out there on the waves.’

*

I watch Leo walking over to Ethan, my heart pounding against my chest. The Red Bull Athletes Zone is mostly empty – just me and Adriano here for Leo, while Ethan’s coach is at the other end of the room talking on the phone.

One of the presenters was milling around but she’s on her way out, so I suppose if he’s going to talk to Ethan in the lead up to the Final away from prying eyes, now is a good time.

Leo has been pensive all morning. I figured that was natural, it being such a big day for him, but when we were standing near the top of the steps earlier, looking out at the ocean so he could have a look at the conditions, he heaved a big sigh.

‘You’re going to be amazing,’ I told him.

‘Plenty of fun to be had today,’ Adriano said.

‘No matter what happens, we’re so proud of you,’ I added.

His forehead creasing, Leo muttered, ‘I have to talk to Ethan.’

Adriano and I were both taken aback by the response, neither of us expecting that to be his line of thought. We’d shared a look but before we could comment, Leo emphasised his point: ‘Before we go out there today, I need to speak to him.’

And then he’d gone back up the steps full of determination, his hands in his pockets.

So, I knew this moment was coming, but I didn’t know when. Ever since we entered the Athletes Zone to find Ethan warming up on the exercise bike, Adriano and I have been on edge, glancing at each other, wondering if he was going to take this chance.

As he sees Leo approaching, Ethan looks confused. Then wary.

His pedalling slows, his shoulders tense.

Leo takes a deep breath. ‘There’s been something I’ve been meaning to say.’

Ethan stops pedalling altogether, straightening his back, his arms dropping to his side. He doesn’t say anything, waiting for Leo to continue. Adriano and I pretend to be busy, but I’m in full meerkat mode: alert and ready to step in if needed.

‘I’m sorry, mate,’ Leo says eventually, his words coming out fast, as though he’s pushing them out along with all the air in his lungs.

His brow furrowed, Ethan stares at him, his mouth in a hard, straight line.

‘I’m sorry about the way I treated you. No excuses, I was a shitty friend. You reached out so many times, even when things were really bad between us, but I ignored your offers of help. One of the biggest mistakes of my life.’

Ethan’s frown deepens. He looks down at the ground.

‘I didn’t like seeing you like that,’ he mutters.

‘I know,’ Leo says.

Inhaling deeply, Ethan brings his eyes back up. ‘It was a long time ago.’

‘Still. I wanted to apologise,’ Leo says firmly. ‘I wasn’t there for you like I should have been.’

Ethan nods. ‘I appreciate that. Thank you.’

Leo holds out his hand. Climbing off the exercise bike, Ethan faces him properly, takes his hand and they shake. The tension in the room eases. With this simple gesture, a heavy weight begins to lift. I look over to Adriano to see he has tears in his eyes.

‘You’ve been looking pretty good out there,’ Leo comments, a smile playing across his lips. ‘Any chance you’ve been practising since you retired?’

Ethan cracks a laugh. ‘I heard the rumour you’d be here, so I thought I’d try to up my game a little. You know I always liked to kick your butt in the water.’

‘I don’t remember that happening too often.’

‘Yeah? I’ll have a go at refreshing your memory today.’ Ethan grins as Leo chuckles. ‘You know, mate, all that bullshit in the press about us being rivals. I never liked it.’

Leo’s laughter fades, confusion flitting across his expression.

‘I never liked being pitted against you,’ Ethan presses, looking at Leo earnestly.

‘I know that we… grew apart, but even when we were fighting, I still missed surfing together. When we were groms, you made me want to be better. You and your dad… I learnt a lot from you guys.’ He nods over at Adriano, who responds with a watery smile. ‘My family never got it like you did.’

Leo smiles, folding his arms across his chest. ‘Some good times.’

‘Fuck yeah,’ Ethan says. ‘Some of the best times of my life, catching waves here at Bells with you.’

Leo nods, his eyes twinkling at the memories. ‘Same.’

‘Guess we’re lucky to have today, then,’ Ethan says, lifting his chin. ‘A chance to relive it all. It’s going to be fun.’ He gives Leo a knowing smile. ‘The swell’s looking good.’

‘Yeah, we’ll get some great waves today.’

‘Let’s hope I’ll have priority on the best ones.’

‘I thought we were here to have fun again.’

‘It’s still a competition, mate; don’t get too comfortable.’ Ethan grins. ‘You’ve always been the best surfer I know, the only one to beat. There’s no one I’d rather win against.’

‘There’s no one I’d rather lose to.’

A beat of silence passes as Ethan looks physically moved by Leo’s statement, his eyes glistening. ‘Yeah, me neither.’

‘Whatever happens, I’ve got your back out there.’

Leo holds up his hand again. Ethan grabs it and pulls him in for a hug.

‘Yeah, always mate,’ Ethan says, clapping his back like men do before drawing away.

Having been lingering to the side of them since his phone call ended, waiting for a good moment to interrupt, Ethan’s coach smiles apologetically.

‘We’ve got an interview, Ethan,’ he says, gesturing to the door.

Ethan nods and with a sharp nod goodbye to Leo, he follows him out.

As they leave, Leo exhales with relief. His eyes drift to me and he smiles.

He looks lighter. As Adriano dabs at the corner of his eyes, I wander over to Leo and he wraps his arms around me, the palms of my hands resting against his chest. I tip my head back to smile up at him.

‘That was a nice line. The “no one I’d rather lose to” one. I’m impressed.’

‘I have been hanging out with a writer recently.’

I give a soft laugh as he presses his forehead against mine, closing his eyes. We stay like that for a moment and then he takes a deep breath, lifting his head.

Turning to look at his dad, he receives a nod. It’s time.

‘Let’s go find out how the article ends,’ he says, releasing me and moving to take his board from Adriano.

‘I’ll be on the beach waiting for you when you come in,’ I tell him.

He tucks his board under his arm. ‘Promise?’

‘Promise.’

*

As Leo and Ethan paddle out together, it strikes me that I’m oddly calm.