Page 14
Story: Ride the Wave
‘I think it’s a lovely way of putting it.
Even if you’re not a surfer.’ I hesitate.
‘Adriano, you seem passionate about Leo finding his love of surfing after everything – do you worry about him entering the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach contest again, being in a competitive headspace, and what it might do to his mentality?’
He ponders the question. ‘I trust Leo,’ he answers eventually. ‘If this is what Leo needs to do, then he has my support. Bells Beach… means something to him.’
I notice something flash across his expression – fear, maybe – but it’s gone too fast for me to read. As if he can tell I’m studying him, he collects himself, fixing a smile.
‘Why is Bells Beach so important? Because he grew up around there?’
‘I’ll leave that for him to answer,’ he says softly.
‘I suppose everyone wants to ring that iconic bell trophy,’ I say, steering away from the personal angle now that he’s shut it down but still hoping to get something else from him.
‘Oh yes,’ he chuckles, his expression lighting up.
‘Bells Beach is the longest-running event in the surf calendar. So much history in that wave. The champions of Bells have been some of the true greats of the sport. The bell trophy is iconic – Leo has rung it before and I believe he has what it takes to ring it again.’
‘And what about Michelle?’ I ask gingerly. ‘She seems fully supportive of his comeback. What are her thoughts on his return to the surf scene?’
‘Mmm.’ He sighs, giving me a pointed look. ‘I won’t talk about Michelle.’
Oh well. It was worth a try. ‘I understand.’
He smiles gratefully before gesturing to our empty plates. ‘Ah, now we have finished our lunch, I think we should finish the interview. You press stop on that thing,’ he gestures to my phone, ‘and we can have a proper drink.’
I burst out laughing, reaching over to press stop on the recording, dropping my phone into my bag and turning off my Dictaphone too.
‘Thank you so much, Adriano,’ I gush as he waves over his friend who owns the restaurant, asking for a bottle of wine that the owner recommends. ‘That was wonderful.’
‘Probably a lot of nonsense, but hopefully you have something there.’
‘There’s plenty, trust me.’ I grin, leaning back so the waiter can clear the table. ‘I have to say that it’s very unusual I speak to a family member before the subject themselves, but never mind. I’ve made a start.’
‘Leo will come round,’ he assures me, beaming at the owner who comes over with the bottle, clapping Adriano on the back before he fills our glasses.
‘He really does not want to do this.’
‘No, but he gave his mother his word. And you, also.’ He holds up his glass to toast. ‘To your article. I hope that the world gets to see the real Leo.’
I clink my glass against his. ‘Me too. Cheers.’
‘Saúde . ’
We sip our drinks and I smile my approval of his wine choice.
‘So, do you surf, Iris?’ he asks.
‘No,’ I say, tensing.
‘You should. I think you would like it. I read your articles and I like that you give the sport a go yourself. The greats make it look so easy, but you show your readers what that takes to achieve,’ he says, watching me as I fiddle with the edge of the tablecloth.
‘The article about the skier was very moving.’
‘Thank you. I’ve skied before, so it was fun to try it again. I wasn’t exactly his level, but…’ I force a laugh, trailing off.
‘Leo will take you out on the water if you wish. I can speak to him.’
‘I don’t think that will be necessary,’ I say quickly. ‘I’ve read a lot about surfing and I can watch Leo while he’s out there.’
‘Reading about surfing is not the same. To really understand it, you need to be on a board moving with the water, focusing only on the steadiness of your body, the shifting of balance, the feel of the tide.’
I take a large gulp of wine, placing down my glass.
‘You know, I think I’ve drunk wine every day that I’ve been here?
I keep forgetting that I’m here for work.
It’s easy to do that in a place like this.
It must be hard for you to avoid going to Marina’s every day: a bar on the beach with that view so close to your shop! She wouldn’t be able to get rid of me!’
I’m speaking too quickly, rambling. If he notices my nerves, he pretends not to.
He offers a warm smile. ‘Yes, it is tempting.’
‘Your shop is in such a great location.’
He inhales deeply through his nose. ‘You’re not the only person to notice that. A property developer has offered to buy it. They want to build a block of flats there.’
‘Oh! Well, that’s… How do you feel about that?’
Adriano knits his eyebrows together in a frown. ‘It breaks my heart. The locals are all against such development, but that is what is happening here now. Tourism is growing and that can be a good thing… and a bad thing. Costs are high. I may not have a choice.’
‘You might have to sell?’
He nods slowly. ‘This is not for your article, Iris—’
‘Off the record,’ I interject firmly. ‘You have my word.’
‘That is one of the reasons Leo has agreed to the competition and the article,’ he says softly.
‘He knows that if he wins, the spotlight will be on him again and our shop and school will likely be saved; after a comeback like this, if he’s successful, business would boom with his name attached to it.
’ He sighs, concern etched in the creases on his forehead.
‘I wish he didn’t put that pressure on himself, but he cares deeply about my business. ’
‘I’m so sorry. That’s a lot to shoulder. For both of you.’
‘Yes, it’s one of those things. The modern apartments here, they are beautiful for visitors, but too many and suddenly, what makes the village what it is, that is lost. The new replaces the old. Change is good but not when you lose the spirit of a place, you see?’
I feel a stab of guilt at staying in one of those new modern apartments. ‘Yes.’
‘There are lots of people here who support me and the surf school, people like Marina and others who live and work here all year round. I have not lost hope yet.’
‘You have my article too,’ I remind him eagerly. ‘People will want to book some lessons and come visit your shop once they read about it, I’m sure of it.’
‘I hope. Another reason why Leo agreed to the article. But it’s easy to say you’ll do something, and then when it comes to it…’
‘I’ve met reluctant interviewees before. I’m sure I can win him over.’
‘I know that, Iris,’ Adriano says, his eyes glinting at me. ‘I knew as soon as I met you that Leo didn’t have a chance.’
‘Maybe I’ll try to speak to him this evening,’ I suggest, straightening. ‘He knew we were having lunch, right? So he might be quite keen to talk, wanting to know what you and I have spoken about. Where do you think I’ll find him tonight?’
‘Yoga.’
I blink at him. ‘Yoga? Leo does yoga.’
‘I was the one who encouraged him to try it,’ Adriano tells me proudly. ‘He was too focused on his gym workouts in between surfing, and I said he should try yoga so he could learn the importance of breath. That is as important to surfing as building muscle. He loves it now and practises often.’
‘Huh.’ I pick up my glass again, swirling the liquid round.
Leo leans back in his chair to observe me. ‘You’re quite like him, you know.’
‘Who, Leo? Is that because we’re both stubborn?’
‘Determined, smart, self-sufficient,’ he corrects gently. ‘And something about you that draws everyone in – yet you hold them at bay.’
‘Here I was thinking I was difficult to read.’ I take a sip of wine, blushing. ‘Am I that easy to crack? We’ve only had one lunch.’
‘You’ll have to let me know how it goes with Leo,’ he says, brushing over my embarrassment with a secretive smile. ‘I think you two might just get on.’
Table of Contents
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- Page 13
- Page 14 (Reading here)
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